A Beginner's Guide to Kabuki and 5 Best Theaters in Japan

Everything you need to know about kabuki

Kabuki was a popular pastime among the common people during the Edo period (1603-1868.) It’s one of Japan's traditional performing arts, consisting of three elements: drama, dance, and music.

The word kabuki is believed to derive from kabuku, meaning "to be out of the ordinary," and people who dressed eccentrically and acted out of the ordinary during the Edo period were called kabuki-mono.

Dancing in bizarre attire was called kabuki-odori, said to be the beginning of kabuki. The spirit of entertaining people with eccentric fashion and out-of-the-box ideas has been carried over into modern kabuki.

Kabuki explained

Kabuki started in 1603, when a woman named Izumo no Okuni began performing a new style of dance and drama in eccentric fashion in Japan’s former capital of Kyoto.

It evolved into onna-kabuki (women’s kabuki) and wakashu kabuki, in which young boys performed, however, both were banned in the mid-1600s on the grounds of disturbing social morals.

Instead, yaro-kabuki was established after the ban, with participants being adult male actors only, who also took on female roles, known as onna-gata—a style that has remained unchanged since then.

Kabuki makeup and costumes

Kabuki is defined by extravagant clothing and bold makeup known as kumadori, which exaggerates the veins and muscles of the face in vibrant colors on a white-painted base. While red lines represent justice and anger, blue makeup represents an evil or vengeful spirit. This technique was created to allow spectators, watching the performance on a dark stage from afar, to understand the personality of the character.

A popular and rare souvenir that kabuki fans are after is oshiguma, an impression of the makeup of kabuki actors after a play, pressed onto a piece of cloth to create a special memento.

The gorgeous costumes are inspired by the traditional attire of the Edo period. While the shapes and colors have evolved over time to suit various roles and stage effects, the uniquely Japanese aesthetics and the eccentric sense of color unique to kabuki have remained consistent. These costumes are made with different dyeing techniques and embroidery skills, turning them into moving artworks.

The different genres in kabuki

There are more than 400 kabuki plays, of which about 100 are performed frequently. Performances are broadly classified into the following three categories: Jidaimono (historical dramas,) Sewamono (modern dramas,) and Shosagoto (dance plays.)

Jidaimono is a type of historical drama, primarily based on historical incidents and events from eras predating the Edo period. Since it was forbidden at the time to depict plays based directly on events that occurred within the samurai society, they were instead set in eras preceding the Edo period.

• Examples of major plays: Kanjincho, Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami (Sugawara and the Secrets of Calligraphy,) Yoshitsune Senbon Zakura (Yoshitsune and the Thousand Cherry Trees)

Sewamono revolves around the lives of merchants and common people during the Edo period, which was considered modern drama at the time. Many of these plays are fictional, while some are based on actual events. The acting and dialogues are akin to daily conversation, making them relatively easy to understand and thus recommended for those new to kabuki.

• Examples of major plays: Sonezaki Shinju (The Love Suicides at Sonezaki,) Tokaido Yotsuya Kaidan (Ghost Story of Yotsuya in Tokaido,) Benten Kozo (Benten the Maiden and the Five Thieves)

Shosagoto are performances with almost no dialogue, in which the story is expressed through dancing. Many of the plays are simple and can be enjoyed by people who’re not familiar with kabuki.

• Example of a major play: Musume Dojoji (The Maiden at Dojoji Temple)

Everything you need to know to enjoy kabuki

People tend to think that kabuki is difficult to understand and that watching it requires certain manners, but kabuki, which developed as a pastime for the common people during the Edo period, is an easy and enjoyable form of entertainment. Here are some tips so that even first-timers can fully immerse themselves in the experience.

Take advantage of audio guides and pamphlets

Kabuki plays are held almost any time of the year. If you find a performance you’re interested in, it’s helpful to look up the story in advance, so you can follow the play even if you don’t understand Japanese.

However, most theaters sell pamphlets or offer audio guides for detailed explanations. Check each venue’s website in advance to find out what services are available.

What to wear to a kabuki play?

There is no specific dress code for enjoying a kabuki play, so wear something you’re comfortable in. However, if you want to fully immerse yourself in the Japanese experience, watch kabuki while dressed in a kimono. There are kimono rental shops near Tokyo’s Kabukiza Theater.

Can I eat during performances?

After each act, there’s a 10 to 30-minute intermission before the next act begins. The rules regarding eating and drinking during the performances vary by theater, so make sure to check the website of each venue in advance.

Some tickets, however, may include a boxed lunch, which you can enjoy while watching the performance. Snacks and refreshments are also available at the theaters, as well as special kabuki-themed souvenirs.

How to purchase kabuki tickets

You can book tickets online, over the phone, or directly at the venue on the day of the performance.

The easiest way is to purchase tickets online, but note that changes and cancellations are not possible.

Tickets are also available on the day of the performance at theaters’ ticket counters, but be aware that there is a possibility of standing-room only for popular performances. Tickets are available for daytime and evening performances, as well as for single acts only. Since each play consists of several acts, the latter allows you to only watch one.

Ticket prices vary depending on the type of seat, ranging from JPY 18,000 for the best seats and JPY 4,000 for those farthest from the stage. Single-act tickets are reasonably priced between JPY 1,000 and JPY 2,000, perfect for those who’re new to kabuki.

Japan's five most famous kabuki theaters

Kabuki is primarily performed at the Kabukiza Theater in Tokyo’s posh Ginza neighborhood, but you can also watch it at venues in Kyoto and Osaka. While the Kabukiza Theater offers performances almost every day, other venues only have them on certain days, so make sure to check their schedule before your visit.

Kabukiza Theater: Enjoy direct access from Higashi-Ginza Station

The Kabukiza Theater, which has been rebuilt four times since its establishment in 1889, was last renovated in 2013. It’s directly connected to Higashi-Ginza Subway Station for convenient access. 

At the souvenir store on the first basement floor, you can savor meals and shop for items to commemorate your visit. On the fifth floor of the adjacent Kabukiza Tower, you’ll find the Kabukiza Gallery with exhibitions themed around kabuki.

Kabukiza
Address: 4-12-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Access: Directly connected to Higashi-Ginza Station Exit 3 (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line, Toei Asakusa Line,) 5-min walk from Tokyo Metro Ginza Station Exit A7 (Ginza, Marunouchi, Hibiya lines)
Official website: https://www.kabukiweb.net/theatres/kabukiza/kabukiza-information/

Get around the city with the Tokyo Subway Ticket and enjoy unlimited rides on all Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway lines, including access to Higashi-Ginza Station.

Shinbashi Enbujo Theatre: The best place to see "Super Kabuki"

Located about a five-minute walk from the Kabukiza Theater, this venue is rather small with a relaxed atmosphere. You can enjoy boxed lunches during the intermission in the theater's cafeteria or in the special box seats (reservations required,) which are prepared in the theater’s kitchen. A wide variety of plays are performed, including musicals as well as Super Kabuki based on anime.

Shinbashi Enbujo Theatre
Address: 6-18-2 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Access: 5-min walk from Higashi-Ginza Station Exit 6 (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line, Toei Asakusa Line,) 3-min walk from Tsukijishijo Station Exit A3 (Toei Oedo Line)
Official website: https://www.kabukiweb.net/theatres/shinbashi/

The National Theatre: Enjoy the close proximity to the stage and realistic atmosphere

With its two halls, the National Theatre offers kabuki, traditional Japanese performing arts such as dance, folk arts, gagaku (old Japanese court music,) and bunraku (Japanese puppet theater) performances.

Since the distance between stage and the last row is only 25 meters, you can feel the realism of the play. The on-site souvenir shop offers a variety of kabuki-related goods, including books, CDs, and DVDs.

The National Theatre
Address: 4-1 Hayabusa-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Access: 5-min walk from Hanzomon Station Exits 1 or 6 (Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line)
Official website: https://www.ntj.jac.go.jp/kabuki/ (in Japanese only)

Osaka Shochikuza Theatre: Explore the first Western-style theater in the Kansai Region

The Osaka Shochikuza Theatre was established in 1923 as the first Western-style theater in the Kansai Region. In addition to kabuki, you can also enjoy kamigata-rakugo (traditional Japanese comic storytelling which originated in Osaka and Kyoto,) as well as modern comedy plays.

Inside the theater, you’ll find a number of popular restaurants from the Kansai Region, but you can also find Osaka’s popular street foods along the nearby Dotonbori Shopping Street, a major tourist attraction of the city.

Osaka Shochikuza Theatre
Address: 1-9-19 Dotonbori, Chuo-ku, Osaka, Osaka Prefecture
Access: Short walk from Namba Station Exit 14 (Osaka Metro Midosuji, Yotsubashi, Sennichimae lines)
Official website: https://www.kabukiweb.net/theatres/shochikuza/

Minamiza Theater: Visit one of Japan’s oldest theaters

Minamiza Theater was built in 1929, known as the birthplace of kabuki. It’s a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, and one of the oldest theaters in Japan, characterized by its historical and traditional exterior and beautiful interior.

Minamiza Theater
Address: 198 Nakano-cho, Shijo-Ohashi Higashizume, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
Access: Short walk from Gion-Shijo Station Exit 6 (Keihan Electric Railway;) 3-min walk from Kyoto-kawaramachi Station Exit 1 (Hankyu Electric Railway)
Official website: https://www.kabukiweb.net/theatres/minamiza/

Opt for the Kansai Area Pass and enjoy unlimited rides on trains and shinkansen in the Kansai Region. It includes a one-day subway ticket for the Kyoto Municipal Subway, the Keihan Electric Railway, and Hankyu Railway.

Discover kabuki—Japan’s traditional performing art

Kabuki is rooted in the culture of Japan's Edo period, and its lifestyle and values differ from those of today. The spoken language of the time can be difficult to understand depending on the performance, but it’s not necessary to understand all of the content. As a form of traditional entertainment, you can focus on the beauty of the costumes and stage backdrops, as well as the fun of the stage sets. With a wide variety of traditional and modern-style performances, there's something for everyone to enjoy.

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*The information in this article, such as prices and business hours, was accurate at the time of publication but is subject to change. Please refer to the official website(s) for the latest information.

Tokyo Subway Ticket (24/48/72 hours)

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・Pick up your ticket at all Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway line stations by scanning a QR code.

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・Includes a 1-day pass for Kyoto Municipal Subway and Keihan Electric Railway.